YOU CAN FEEL LONDON IN THIS

Finally, after spending the summer in the countryside, I managed to visit the exhibitions that have been highly praised and partially seen on social media. The first on my list was the retrospective exhibition of the brand FYODOR GOLAN, Harmonious Collision at the Museum Storage Facility, which had caught my attention a while ago.

When I was still studying at Riga School of Design and Art from 2014 to 2018, Fyodor was already a school legend. If I were to list all the well-known artists and designers who started their journey at our school, my mouth would go dry, but I had heard quite a lot about Fyodor and his success in London. Perhaps also because my department was right next to the fashion design department.

Before studying embroidery at the Royal School of Needlework appeared in my future, I was convinced that my path was in fashion. However, that path didn’t materialize when I found out I wasn’t accepted into the fashion history program at Central Saint Martins. I don’t know why I had convinced myself that I needed to study fashion history; I had even planned to pursue a master's degree in fashion criticism. The youth maximalism at 19 was very much present, if you know feel it :) Since school, I hadn’t really heard much about Fyodor anymore, even despite studying in London for two years. But today, I got to know the FYODOR GOLAN brand, and I really liked what I saw.

Firstly, the brand's outfits have been worn by Jennifer Lopez, Rihanna, Rita Ora, Madonna, Ariana Grande, and other global stars, as well as a number of Latvian cultural personalities, for which huge applause is due. "A world-class brand and reputation, … from our school!!" is what I was squealing inside, feeling that same quality mark on myself too.

As I walked through the exhibition, my notes were: "Ahhh, that blue is sooo good," compliments to the exhibition's scenography, and in general, the idea that it should be located in a museum storage facility, with the garments hanging in a Sculpture Forest, and above all, the loudest note – "you can really feel London here." This is maybe the second or third exhibition in Latvia I've walked through where I feel transported to the Tate Modern Gallery or the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. I can't quite pinpoint exactly what these factors are that give me that feeling, but it's definitely there. Very much so. The diorama showcase with exhibits and super clear glass (!!!), where you could see sketches, samples, shoes, outfits, inspirational objects, and more, especially brought back memories of the Dior exhibition that I saw at both the Louvre and V&A. The exhibition's branding with its colors, fonts, and lighting gives an absolute sense of completeness and professionalism.

What I remember most are the fashion exhibitions by Vasilyev at the Museum of Decorative Arts and Design. Since he started working at the Fashion Museum, I rarely visit there because the atmosphere doesn't quite speak to me, so this exhibition, in contrast, was a great contemporary turn in how to exhibit garments. Lights, colors, dynamics, and energy – this exhibition truly had energy, and you could feel it from every visitor whose eyes sparkled as they admired the embroidery and enjoyed it simultaneously with the Sculpture Forest. And in general, creating a pink room where fashion shows are projected on the ceiling was a very good idea.

And of course, about my beloved embroidery. When I went to see the Dior embroidery in 2017 at the Louvre, before I even knew where and how I wanted to study, I don't think I've ever spent so much time looking at embroidery at any exhibition. Since then, it’s been years in studying, life full of embroidery, and I hadn’t really felt a genuine interest in embroidery at an exhibition anymore. Today, I once again felt like that teenager, delighted with every garment featuring embroidery, admiring the combination of materials and techniques, the use of color, and how fabric has been given texture.

In summary – a big yes to bright colors; I felt a connection with the school and the perspective we were instilled with, I felt the taste of London, and I did a little happy dance inside. 10/10.

I hope to actually go to London soon, not just feel it in Riga,
Elīza Māra

P.S. I fucking love that blue light